2012 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape
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Why We Love It:
What makes a wine “great”? Well, I suppose like most sensory experiences, great wine is very much in the eye (or more aptly – the mouth!) of the beholder. That said, there are certain empirical qualities that make wines special, sought-after, expensive and worth hunting down. For me, wines that offer the potential to not just last a long time, but rather improve, evolve and express new flavours as they age offer profound drinking pleasure. Moreover, whether I’m sipping an $8 quaffer or indulging in something spectacular and expensive, I value wines of immense character and individual personality; wines that when you close your eyes can take you to another place and time. Finally, when I choose to spend a lot on a bottle of wine, I’d like to deliver and experience that is unlike other wines. Ubiquitous, generic and tasty are all things I can get without spending much.
As we proceed through this checklist, I am hard-pressed to find another wine made anywhere that manages to over-deliver on these criteria quite like the top cuvee here from Vieux Telegraphe. The union of incredibly concentrated, rich and ripe dark red and black fruit come together around tannic texture reminiscent of the hot dry stones that litter La Crau, a high plateau owned almost entirely by the Brunier family at Vieux Telegraphe, and a site which has without a doubt become the definitive “Grand Cru” site in all of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. There is no disputing that this is a pricey bottle of wine, but the challenging site on which its grown, the heaps of love bestowed upon it by a legendary wine family, the magnificent aging potential and hedonistic drinking pleasure all suggest to me that its worth every last penny.
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Recipes & Food Pairings:
Rosemary-Crusted Rack Lamb w/ Olive Oil Whipped Potatoes – RECIPE
Pear & Gorgonzola Stuffed Ravioli – RECIPE
Daube de Boeuf (Provencal Braised Beef) – RECIPE
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Price:
BOTTLE: $99.00
CASE: $594.00
BUY THIS WINE
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Technical Specs:
ALCOHOL: 14.5%
BOTTLE: 750mL
Case Pack: 6 x 750mL
GRAPES: 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre & 5% Cinsault, Clairette + others
CLOSURE: Natural Cork
CELLAR POTENTIAL: 10 years and drink over the following 10-15 years
SERVING TEMPERATURE: 15°C to 17°C
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Tasting Notes:
“Rock-solid, with a hefty core of fig, blackberry and black cherry fruit, wrapped in chestnut and tobacco leaf notes and carrying through a lavender- and tar-framed finish. Dense and grippy, showing a slightly old-school shading. Should cellar well. Best from 2016 through 2030.”
94 / 100 Points
James Molesworth / WineSpectator.com
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“Lastly, the flagship 2012 Châteauneuf du Pape is a classically structured, elegant effort that will evolve gracefully on its balance and harmony. Showing the telltale seaweed, currants, olive, licorice and ample minerality so common in this cuvee, it’s medium to full-bodied, lightly textured and focused on the palate, with plenty of tannin. It needs 3-4 years of cellaring and will have 15-20 years of longevity.”
93 / 100 Points
Jeb Dunnuck / eRobertParker.com
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“Opaque ruby. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes spicy dark berries and potpourri, with zesty mineral and incense qualities adding complexity. Pliant boysenberry and candied lavender flavors are impressively fresh and focused, with a hint of licorice adding depth. Closes sweet, supple and broad, with resonating spiciness and gentle tannins that add shape and grip”
93 / 100 Points
Josh Raynolds / Vinous.com
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