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Wine of the Week #1528: 2013 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape “Telegramme”

[ 2013 Telegramme Chateauneuf-du-Pape ]


PRODUCER PROFILE | Vieux Telegraphe

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[ Why We Love It: ]

If you ever come across a wine that the producers call their “young vines cuvee” and the vineyards used to produce it average more than 30 years of age, you should buy it immediately. In fact, you should probably buy as much of it as you can possibly carry out of the store. If that wine is made by the Brunier family at Vieux Telegraphe, you might want to give some serious consideration to renting a truck so you can get it all home…

We’re proud of every bottle we bring to market and introduce to our clients. That said, from time to time, we come across something that is so exciting and delicious that it’s hard to fully convey the magnitude; a wine that brings together pedigree, world-class terroir, more than 100 years of family tradition, impressive aging potential, an edgy and fun package, unmistakable value – and oodles of pure drinking pleasure. And that’s exactly what you’re look at here.

“Telegramme” is the “2nd wine” of Vieux Telegraphe – one of the noble names of France’s southern Rhone Valley and one of the great wine estates of France. Vieux Telgraphe produces serious wines that are a must-have for serious wine collectors. Their flagship bottling from at Vieux Telegraphe comes from the famous “La Crau” site – a vineyard that would undoubtedly be amongst the very top “Grand Crus” if the Rhone used the same vineyard designation system found in Burgundy.

This so-called “2nd wine” from the Bruniers is as good (or better!) than a wide swath of “1st wines” produced across Chateaneuf-du-Pape. This wine delivers an incredible dense and concentrated core of dark red and black fruit, savoury garrigue herb notes of rosemary, thyme and lavender, dry and dusty tannins and a enough acidity to hold it all together. Southern Rhone reds deliver everything a red wine can ask for – and this is one of the most delicious and pleasurable examples we’ve come across in some time.

[ Recipes & Food Pairings: ]

Gorgonzola Risotto w/ Grilled Figs – RECIPE

Rosemary + Thyme-Butter Basted T-Bone – RECIPE

White Wine + Tomato-Braised Lamb Shank w/ Rosemary Polenta – RECIPE

[ Price: ]

BOTTLE: $48.95

CASE: $587.40

BUY THIS WINE

[ Technical Specs: ]

ALCOHOL: 14.5%

BOTTLE: 750mL

Case Pack: 12 x 750mL

GRAPES: 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 7% Mourvedre + 3% Clairette

CLOSURE: Natural Cork

CELLAR POTENTIAL: Now to 2025

SERVING TEMPERATURE: 17°C to 18°C

[ Tasting Notes: ]

“Medium to dark garnet in color, this wine smells of flowers and garrigue and bright strawberry fruit. In the mouth, bright berry fruit mixes with powdery tannins and fantastic, bright mineral acidity. Stony but forest berry fruit. Lean and bright. A blend of ‘young vines’ (roughly 30 years old) divided between 80% Grenache, 10% of Syrah, 7% Mourvedre, and 3% Clairette.”

9 – 9.5 / 10 Points

Alder Yarrow / Vinography.com

“The young-vine, entry-level 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Télégramme is solid, and this cuvee continues to offer more and more bang for the buck as the vines mature. The goal is upfront and easy-drinking, while still showing classic Vieux Télégraphe character. Made from 70% Grenache and 15% each of Syrah and Mourvedre, aged all in large foudre, it has beautiful aromatics, medium to full-bodied richness and a fleshy, ripe, supple profile that can be hard to come by in this vintage. It has outstanding potential and will drink nicely on release. Located on the eastern edge of the appellation, near the village of Bedarrides, Vieux Télégraphe owns prime plots in the famed La Crau lieu-dit and fashion a traditional, age-worthy style of Châteauneuf du Pape. They continue to streamline the portfolio, and as I commented last year, now produce five Châteauneuf du Papes: three reds and two whites. The reds include the entry-level Télégramme, the Grenache-driven Piedlong, and their top cuvee, the classic Vieux Télégraphe. As for the whites, they have the classic Châteauneuf du Pape white, and while the La Roquete rouge was replaced by the Piedlong, they still release a white Châteauneuf du Pape under the La Roquete label. In addition to their Châteauneufs, this estate makes a bevy of high quality and well-priced releases from Ventoux.”

87-90 / 100 Points

Jeb Dunnuck / eRobertParker.com

Wine of the Week #1528: 2013 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape “Telegramme”


[ TAGS: ]

#Chateauneuf-du-Pape #Rhone #Vieux Telegraphe #France

 

More about Andrew Hanna

Pulling corks and pushing cases as a third generation wine importer in Ontario, Canada selling fine wines and spirits produced by families - not factories. Get the full story at winetrader.ca

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