As we finally emerge from winter’s blustery wrath and look forward to the rejuvenation and welcome reprieve of spring, I sit down to write my first entry for our new WineBlog – The World According to Grape. I couldn’t help but think about the sparkle, refreshment and delicious flavours in one of my favourite indulgences – the aperitif.
From the Latin aperire ("to open”), there is no clear consensus about where or when or by whom the first aperitif was consumed. Antonio Benedetto Carpano, through his creation of the ever-popular pre-dinner sipper (vermouth), may have been the catalyst. By 1786, citizens in Turin, Italy were enjoying a splash of vermouth before dinner. Some cite the Spanish, who have been enjoying a glass of their favourite beverage before dinner for centuries, as have many other tapas munching cultures in Latin America.
There is no dispute however, that by the late 19th century aperitifs had become very fashionable, from the cafes of Rome, Venice and Florence to emerging metropolitan cities in North America. Today, the various regional versions of the aperitif give us a wide range of flavours to choose from.
The Greeks enjoy a splash of Ouzo, while in Italy Bitters and Vermouth are king. You’ll see Pastis at the top of the list in France, whereas the Spanish prefer dry Sherry, but don’t miss out on Arak - the beverage of choice in most of the eastern Mediterranean. There is no definitive aperitif per se, but dry sparkling wines, liqueurs and fortified wines are the most common choices.
One of the things I love most about the whole idea of the aperitif is that it encourages me to explore and experience flavours I might never otherwise. Some of the most fascinating and complex flavours I have ever experienced in a glass come as a small sip to inspire my appetite at the beginning of a meal.
There is something so holistic, organic and real about experiencing the regional or cultural versions of a global tradition, like the aperitif. I can literally close my eyes and feel the sublime luxury so central to the very identity of Champagne when I recall enjoying a glass of Bollinger on the terrace at a three star restaurant in Reims. I can feel the warm southern Spanish sun on my skin when I think back to the last time I enjoyed a copita of Lustau Fino on a patio in Jerez. I can smell the rosemary and herbs growing wild in the countryside of the south of France when I reflect on my last sip of pastis.
Aperitifs can be bone dry and austere, herbal and aromatic or fresh and fruity. They stimulate the palate, build anticipation for the meal to follow and offer a few welcome moments to sit back and reflect on one’s surroundings. Aperitifs are one of those nice little treats in life that soothe the mind, body and soul.
What’s your favourite, or most memorable, aperitif?