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Delicious, exciting, innovative and noteworthy

Andrew Hanna is a third generation wine importer in Ontario, Canada. This interactive forum is a great way to stay on top of his delicious, exciting, innovative and noteworthy experiences in the world of fine wine.
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World According to Grape July 31, 2010
Why I don't have a favourite wine...

There is one question I am asked as a wine importer more often than any other - I am asked to pick my absolute favourite wine. It’s a question I have always struggled to answer. Maybe it’s because it sort of feels like asking a parent which of their kids they like best, or asking a doctor which of their patients they try hardest to treat. Since I represent literally hundreds of wines from around the world, there is no politically correct answer to this question, but I have recently realized that the real reason I struggle with this question so much is because I don’t have an intellectually honest answer, either.

For me, wine and food are intrinsically connected. A great meal is made better with a glass of great wine, and vice versa. There is something almost mystical about how food and wine work together. More than any other beverage, wine has a special ability to become an extension of a meal - a real addition to the table rather than a refreshing swig to wash down the last bite. The land and climate and people in a particular region combine to produce food and wine that express a sensory authenticity of place in both food and wine. It is this distinctive and authentic expression of place that make the relationship between food and wine so special.

And so it becomes clear that my "favourite” wine at any particular moment would be influenced by the food I am eating with it. The Bruniers’ delicious Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc is magical with roasted asparagus risotto. Almonds and olives and anchovies must be tasted next to a Lustau Palo Cortado Sherry to be fully appreciated. Lamb chops off the BBQ scream for a glass of Marques de Murrieta Rioja. The list goes on, but the point is clear – food is a central factor in picking my "favourite” wine at any given moment.

Like food, my surroundings obviously impact what I feel like drinking. Is it a hot summer afternoon or a snowy winter night? Am I enjoying brunch on the patio with friends, or sitting down for a quiet more formal dinner? Am I planning to enjoy a glass of wine with dinner, or a bottle (or two) with a gang of friends over what promises to be a long evening. All of these factors play into selecting my "favourite” wine.

But there is something more to this equation... wine and food always taste best when consumed together in the place they’re from. There is, in my opinion, an absolute connection between how good a wine tastes and the geographic location I am situated in while consuming it. I can’t explain the mechanics of this relationship, but I can state unequivocally that Chianti tastes better on the terrace at San Felice overlooking the hills of Tuscany, Clos Mogador Priorat Tinto has never tasted better than it did in the barrel cellar amidst the surrounding mountainous terrain, and I have perhaps never enjoyed a glass of Bordeaux more than I did over a casual evening BBQ at Jean Noel Belloc’s Chateau Brondelle in the Graves.

Pinpointing a single "favourite” wine is impossible for me. However, the process of understanding wine has provided me with a long list of favourite (albeit far too fleeting) wine moments. And it is perhaps in this lifelong journey to find a "favourite” wine that I have discovered why wine is such a special beverage. Unlike other refreshments, the discovery of wine is as much about the journey as it is about the destination.

A splash of something tasty to get us started...

As we finally emerge from winter’s blustery wrath and look forward to the rejuvenation and welcome reprieve of spring, I sit down to write my first entry for our new WineBlog – The World According to Grape. I couldn’t help but think about the sparkle, refreshment and delicious flavours in one of my favourite indulgences – the aperitif.

From the Latin aperire ("to open”), there is no clear consensus about where or when or by whom the first aperitif was consumed. Antonio Benedetto Carpano, through his creation of the ever-popular pre-dinner sipper (vermouth), may have been the catalyst. By 1786, citizens in Turin, Italy were enjoying a splash of vermouth before dinner. Some cite the Spanish, who have been enjoying a glass of their favourite beverage before dinner for centuries, as have many other tapas munching cultures in Latin America.

There is no dispute however, that by the late 19th century aperitifs had become very fashionable, from the cafes of Rome, Venice and Florence to emerging metropolitan cities in North America. Today, the various regional versions of the aperitif give us a wide range of flavours to choose from.

The Greeks enjoy a splash of Ouzo, while in Italy Bitters and Vermouth are king. You’ll see Pastis at the top of the list in France, whereas the Spanish prefer dry Sherry, but don’t miss out on Arak - the beverage of choice in most of the eastern Mediterranean. There is no definitive aperitif per se, but dry sparkling wines, liqueurs and fortified wines are the most common choices.

One of the things I love most about the whole idea of the aperitif is that it encourages me to explore and experience flavours I might never otherwise. Some of the most fascinating and complex flavours I have ever experienced in a glass come as a small sip to inspire my appetite at the beginning of a meal.

There is something so holistic, organic and real about experiencing the regional or cultural versions of a global tradition, like the aperitif. I can literally close my eyes and feel the sublime luxury so central to the very identity of Champagne when I recall enjoying a glass of Bollinger on the terrace at a three star restaurant in Reims. I can feel the warm southern Spanish sun on my skin when I think back to the last time I enjoyed a copita of Lustau Fino on a patio in Jerez. I can smell the rosemary and herbs growing wild in the countryside of the south of France when I reflect on my last sip of pastis.

Aperitifs can be bone dry and austere, herbal and aromatic or fresh and fruity. They stimulate the palate, build anticipation for the meal to follow and offer a few welcome moments to sit back and reflect on one’s surroundings. Aperitifs are one of those nice little treats in life that soothe the mind, body and soul.

What’s your favourite, or most memorable, aperitif?
 
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